Gear
As one can imagine the possibility of catching a wide range of species and sizes poses a bit of a problem for the traveling fly fisher: go with a heavier rod to cover all situations, or a lighter rod to make the most of inshore opportunities? At least one fisher I met, a regular bonefish fly fisher in Hawaii and Christmas Island, carried a seven weight rod as a compromise, but even he lamented his inability to throw poppers and larger deceivers into the stiff breezes along the shore. I dealt with this question by bringing both eight and five weight rods. Both rods were 9', four piece, very fast action, and fully anodized rods, with the custom built five weight having extra large guides. For most of the near shore work the five was in hand, but when wind and the possibility of larger fish was in the offing the eight weight came out. In truth none of the fish I encountered could not be handled by the five weight, but I was happy to have the eight on me when the afternoon trades began to roar.
Some might suggest otherwise, but I found multi-tip flylines (not specialized warm water versions) to be the most versatile option for fishing in the area. Discussion with various company reps at trade shows have suggested that specialty lines aren't really necessary until you get into extremely warm waters (far in excess of those found in Hawaii). I used multi-tip lines from two different manufacturers and found no issues with "limp" lines or tips. In addition to the five and eight weight multi-tip lines I also bought a seven weight full sink for blue water fishing as well as a seven weight clear intermediate line for flats fishing that I could use on both rods in a pinch. To save packing space, make quick changes on the water and to minimize the number of spools, I used the same size, make and model reel on both rods. Other line/rod/reel configuration are of course possible, but when traveling it's important to keep weight to a minimum and I found this to be best suited to the area and fishing.
Flies:
Flies used in Hawaii generally fall into two categories: baitfish and crustaceans. You will find that the baitfish imitations and particularly streamers will form the main items in your fly arsenal. Deceivers, foil flies and clousers in drab grey/white combinations with a limited amount of flash and a little red either in the heads or eyes do a good job of imitating small mullets and other baitfish that commonly cruise along the shoreline These work very well for jacks, peacock grouper and most of the midwater species you may encounter. Surprisingly, pencil poppers and gurglers will also draw aggressive fish to the surface, but such offerings really should follow the slim profile of the baitfish and ideally be cast along the edges of bait balls or "nervous water". Crustaceans, in particular shrimp patterns, in white and tan tones work well on the flats and bouncing along at the edges of rocky shores. These are areas frequented by bones, bream, flounder and occasionally grouper and these flies will attract them all. Crabs abound on almost any rocky surface, and while I did not have any patterns at hand, I suspect that a small dark olive crab pattern fished around surf washed lava outcrops would probably attract a lot of attention.
Presentations for baitfish on the islands range from "fast" to "strip like hell"--as Greg Miller notes in his web piece Hawaiian Flyfishing Report, "nothing dies of old age in the ocean". You will find that your fast retrieve is closer to imitating a dying fish than a live one, while your fastest will at best come close to mimicking a slightly drunken sardine. Luckily in both cases this means a meal for most predators. Presentations for crustaceans are mercifully slower than those for baitfish, with as little as a few twitches of a well placed fly required to draw a strike on sandy bottoms. However, as most of the fishing takes place in water from 6-14' deep, long slow pulls interspaced with pauses and quick darts are usually more appropriate.
Regardless of the pattern or presentation chosen, whether you buy or tie your own flies, one thing is certain: you will need plenty of each size and type. Where three or four flies of a given type might be sufficient to last half a season on a gentle trout stream, in Hawaii you will can go through as many as a half dozen or more on a single trip. The lava, coral and rocks of the Kona coast will snag, scrape, blunt and break your hooks and flies at an alarming rate.
Final Thoughts:
Until the Island of Hawaii grows some serious coral reefs and flats (in the next ten to fifteen thousand years or so) it will unlikely ever be considered a fly fishing destination--but as the saying goes: it's the journey, not the destination, that counts. While you hunt for the hidden shoals and remote beaches that afford the best flyfishing that the Kona Coast has to offer, you will stumble across ancient fish ponds, villages and pertoglyphs left by the native Hawaiians. You will find bays so choked with sea turtles that it is impossible to cast without hitting one. You will see all manner of lava tubes, blow holes, moonscapes and hidden springs. Indeed the rugged beauty of the island will charm you as much as the tropical palms and white sand beaches. Fly fishing in Hawaii is definitely not an opportunity to be missed.
Aloha and Mahalo,
Aaron
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Tips and Suggestions:There is plenty of literature out there on fishing in the tropics, and while much of it is dedicated to places like Belize and Cuba, it all applies in Hawaii. That said, the following are a few helpful suggestions either worth mentioning again or that I found helpful on my trips:
- Use finger protection. Even if there are no fish making burning runs with your line, the salt will dry on your fingers and act like little razor blades cutting into your skin--I still have the slash in my finger to prove it.
- Pick up a pair of tabis or bring light weight wading boots. Lava and coral are not like sand and while a pair of runners will do for a single trip, most rubber soled footwear will be trashed in as little as one outing. The Hawaiian tabi or felted boot, is a great piece of kit and can usually be found at the local department store at a very reasonable price. As an option a lightweight felted wading boot or sandal with a closed in toe will do.
- Use local knowledge. You've never fished here, but almost every Hawaiian native or otherwise has. Don't be shy about striking up a conversation. This goes doubly so if you run into the rare fly fisherman. A hot tip from a local Ulua fisherman got me into some great bonefish water.
- Clean your lines. Rinsing all your equipment after an outing is always a good idea, but it's a must in Hawaii. One thing I didn't bring and should have was line dressing. In spite of the rinsing and washing your lines will suffer and the dressing would have provided much needed extra protection.
- Dry paper towel in a ziplock. This is one I borrowed for Lefty Krey's book on saltwater fishing and one I'm going to use from now on. Carry a small amount of dry paper towel in a ziplock bag to clean your glasses. One wave out there and your polarized glasses are going to be useless. This tip saved me a ton of time and I'm sure helped me catch a lot more fish.
What to pack:
This is a sketch list only, but based on my experience all will get used.
- 2 Four peice 9' fly rods (one light, one heavy, both fast)
- 1-2 anodized saltwater reels/spools usable on either rod
- 2 Multi-tip lines
- 1 Type VI-VIII full sink line
- 1 Clear Intermediate Line
- Leader material (20 lb Maxima, 12 lb Maxima, 10 lb fluorocarbon)
- 1-2 Tapered Bonefish Leaders
- Line dressing
- Polarized Sunglasses
- Camera
- Small Pack or "Man Bag" (a vest is too warm)
- Snips or scissors
- Hook sharpener (you will need it)
- Tying kit
- Long sleeve SPF 30 shirt
- Flats pants or shorts
- Foreign legion type ball cap or a bandanna to cover your neck
- Suntan Lotion
- Deceivers: grey and white with red heads and/or gills (#8-2)
- Clousers: colours as above with red or yellow lead or brass barbells (#6-2)
- Foil heads: colours as above with silver mylar scaled foil heads and eyes (#6-4)
- Crazy Charlies: Tans, brown, and pale pink (easy on the flash) with brass barbells
Further Reading:
- L. L. Bean Saltwater Fly-Fishing Handbook, Lefty Krey (1996)
- Flyfishing Hawaii: Big Island
- Hawaii Shorefishing Report
- Easy Hawaiian Fishing
- Bonefishing in Hawaii
- Tide Chart
- Magic Seaweed Hawaii Surf Report
Great post Aaron. Thanks for a quick look into an experience that many of us will probably not get around to enjoying.
ReplyDeleteWho would have thought about 'fly fishing' in Hawaii - only a guy that runs a fly fishing forum, I guess.
Thanks again,
Min
If it's got fins and swims, it's fair game. Glad you liked the article.
ReplyDeleteA
A great article Aaron, so many sites seem to assume a high level of advanced knowledge - its nice to seem someone cover the basics & more in a non-patronising way.
ReplyDeleteShould you ever need any replacement reel bearings, why not visit us at http://www.smbbearings.com/index.htm for information on our high spec reel bearings and our EMQ2 low vibration bearings, with oil lubrication, which spin freely and quietly.
Thanks for the kind words. I try and keep it reel (pardon the pun).
ReplyDeleteI'm not sure if I'll be needing any bearings soon, but I'm going to make a mental note and pass the word on to some buddies that the possibility for replacement exists.
Aaron
Awesome write up! I live on the Big Island and just got into fly fishing. I've fished all the spots you wrote about. You mentioned materials for your leader, I was wondering what your leader formula/construction is like. What lenghts of what pound and your knots. Any help would be great. Mahalo!
ReplyDeleteMahalo for reading! As luck would have it, I'm in Kona for a couple of weeks right now. If you want to hook up for some fishing or just for a beer send me a text at 808-430-1851 (or call).
DeleteTo answer your question: It depends on the line I'm using to some extent, but for the most part I rely on a level leader. If I'm throwing poppers in a breeze a stiffer butt section might be called for, but otherwise I opt for a straight 15lb Maxima Ultragreen leader between 5 and 8'.
Why so heavy? Simple answer: after loosing o'io on 8, 10 and 12, I'm not willing to go lighter. Why the Ultragreen? It's a high quality consistent mono that is generally under test when it comes to breaking strength rating (the 15 is probably closer to 18 in practice). Why mono instead of fluoro? Because mono has some give and acts a little like shock tippet, fluoro doesn't--besides it doesn't seem like most species are leader shy, so why pony up for more expensive fluoro?.
With a sinking line you want to try and keep the leader relatively close to the line otherwise you lose the advantage of the sinking line (i.e. getting your fly into the zone faster). If I'm using a bright floating line, I might go a bit longer (maybe 10 or so) just to put some distance between the line and fly.
When I'm in the salt, the only knot I use (fly to leader) is the Non-slip loop knot (http://www.animatedknots.com/nonslipmono/). If I do a leader to leader knot, it's the Double Uni-Knot (http://www.netknots.com/fishing_knots/double-uni-knot).
Hope that helps. While I fly fish a lot, I don't claim to be an expert in warm salt fishing. I'm only relating what I've learned through trial and error. That said, I'm happy to pass on what I've learned.
Aaron
PS Oh... I finally landed my first real O'io (about 4-5 lbs) yesterday. I'll post a proper write up in my next blog post.