2011/09/30

Greys Streamflex 10' 3wt Rod Review

I'm planning on doing a series of rod reviews based on my experiences with rods that I currently own or have really enjoyed using in the past. I'm going to keep the reviews general in scope and hopefully provide enough information to help someone in the market for a new or used rod a leg up on their research. Of course it stands to reason that if I've kept a rod in the arsenal, there is a good chance that the reviews will generally be positive.

The first rod up is the original Greys Streamflex 10' 4pc 3wt rod (now replaced by the new XF2 Streamflex line). The Greys brand is owned by Hardy, and represents their foray into the middle range of the market. You won't find any $10,000 reels under the Greys name, but you will find a range of products geared towards fishermen of more modest means (and I place myself firmly in this camp). In addition to this rod I own two of the now discontinued GRXii reels and a great heavy weight wading jacket. Most of the Greys products are manufactured in Asia, and the Streamflex is no different.

The components are fairly standard for rods in this price range with chrome snake, tip and stripping guides, a stabilized tiger wood reel insert and an anodized aluminum up-locking two screw reel seat. The colour of the blank is a subdued olive bronze with gold wraps, and the reel seat matches with a bronze matte finish. The fit and finish on the rod is top notch without any of the epoxy sagging you sometimes see from other offshore manufacturers--not surprising considering the Hardy connection. The two ring seat is a nice touch on the rod and the small rubber washer between the two helps keep the reel locked in place nicely. The only criticism I can level with respect to the components is that the size of the top guide is a bit smaller than I would like for passing knots, and the first stripping guide is a little far from the reel. It's a bit annoying to have to stretch to reach the line when it accidentally slips from your fingers.

The rod comes in at a modest 3.31 oz or about 94 grams. At that weight it is comparable with most rods in this price range, but some of the features such as the reel seat probably add a bit to the weight. I haven't noticed any significant issues with respect to the weight and casting and nymphing over an eight to ten hour fishing day isn't an issue. Lighter rods are available, but I think that the rod strikes the right balance between features and weight.

The rod was originally designed with Euro-nymphing techniques in mind and so not surprisingly it has a nice soft tip section. While a stiffer mid and butt section is typical on many of the rod offerings for euro-style nymphing, the Greys has a much less aggressive taper and allows for more feel and flex in these sections than other rods in this class. For my style of nymphing, where tactile sensitivity plays a significant role, I find this to be a real plus in the rod. The downside of course is that this flex can make controlling and lifting larger fish a bit more difficult.

Outside of nymphing the Streamflex performs well as a dry fly rod and excellently for wet fly presentations. It delivers accurate casts over good distances and roll and spey casts are very easy to perform. This jury is still out with respect to streamer fishing, but I've found it no better or worse than most of my rods in this weight rating. This is probably as it should be because in my opinion rods in this weight range are probably not the best for a lot of streamer presentations.

Typical Rod Configuration(s) Used:
  • Lines: 3wt DT Cortland Sylk; 3wt Sage DT Quiet Taper; 3wt SA III Sink tip; 3wt Cortland Como-clear
  • Reel: Hardy Fly Weight
  • Leaders: Tapered 12-18' (Dry and Wet); 12-22' (Nymphing); 5-12' (Streamer)
Similar rods used and/or tested:
  • Echo Shadow PE 3wt 10.5' 4pc
  • Snowbee Diamond 3/4wt 10' 3pc

2011/01/29

The Leggy Blond - Hawaiian Bonefish Fly (step-by-step)

Well I'm a month and a bit back from Hawaii now, and before I put away the saltwater tying materials I thought I would share the "killer fly" I used in Kona--the Leggy Blond.

I don't suppose it should be called a killer fly as almost all the big bruisers I hooked managed to shake off, break off or open the hooks I used. Still, it was the fly and sometimes the only fly that worked all over the west coast of the island (bottom permitting). It's loosely based on the "90%" fly developed by noted Oahu guide Oliver Owens, and other crazy charlie style patterns I've used on the islands.

Like most of my flies the construction is fairly simple: six materials including thread and hourglass eyes. I took my time on the one below, but you can crank them out fairly quickly with an in-line rotary if you're in a hurry.

*****
Leggy Blond
(step-by-step)




Recipe:
  • Hook: #6-4 Mustad 3407, 34007, TMC811s, T800s or similar
  • Thread: White or tan 12/0 or 8/0, or invisible mending thread
  • Eyes: Gold medium hourglass w/ painted red or yellow eyes
  • Legs: Pearl perfect rubber (or medium to large rubber legs depending on fly size)
  • Body: Tan rayon 4-strand floss (two stands) or similar
  • Underwing: 4 Strands of rootbeer midge flash doubled
  • Wing: Ginger rabbit cut from zonker strip
  • Head: Thread coloured with permanent marker (optional)
  • Leg Markings: Brown permanent marker and red nail polish
  • Other: Superglue 

     Step 1: Tie-in thread



    Step 2: Tie-in hourglass eyes and secure with a drop of superglue. They should be "gold"--alternate colours can be used but I generally felt that the gold was key. The eye colour probably isn't as important as the metal, but I generally used red or yellow.


      Step 3: Turn the hook over, bring the thread forward and tie-in the rubber leg material. I tie it along the far top first before folding it back, securing it on the near-top such that the leg material doesn't overlap (as shown).



      Step 4: Secure the legs along the body, stopping just before the bend. Return the thread ahead of the eyes. Do not trim the legs at this point--it is easier to do this at the end.


      Step 5: Tie-in tan floss at the front of the body and wrap around the eyes and along the shank in two layers, returning to the front of the fly to tie-off. Depending on your timing you can coat the floss with brushable superglue.



      Step 6: Tie-in the flash underwing as per the leg material, folding the four strands to make eight for the completed wing. Trim to length.



      Step 7: Trim a bunch of ginger rabbit fur from the zonker strip and tie-in the wing. I like the mobility of rabbit, but getting long enough fur can be tricky in the larger sizes. Owens uses arctic fox.



      Step 8: Neatly finish the head and (optionally) colour it with an appropriate coloured permanent marker (rootbeer in this case).


      Step 9: Colour barring on the legs with a brown permanent marker, trim to the desired length and "paint" the tips with red nail polish.



      fin

      *nb: You can enlarge any of the above shots by clicking on the image.